Sleeved lining for coats and jackets



y 1961 J. s. LOCKETZ 2,990,550

SLEEVED LINING FOR COATS AND JACKETS Filed Oct. 24, 1957 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. JACOB JZ-WOUR lam 72 firm? 5/5 July 4, 1961 J. s. LOCKETZ 2,990,550

SLEEVED LINING FOR COATS AND JACKETS Filed on. 24, 1957 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VENTOR. J4c05 557M001?! az/(frz W Vwyf/ld/ 4770;?!4675 United States PatentO 2,990,550 SLEEVED LINING FOR COATS AND JACKETS Jacob Seymour Locketz, 2613 Englewood Ave., St. Louis Park, Minneapolis, Minn. Filed Oct. 24, 1957, Ser. No. 692,199 2 Claims. (Cl. 2-97) This invention relates to linings for various coats and ackets, worn over other clothing and particularly to a sleeved lining which preferably is detachable.

In climates where the temperature is cold during Winter seasons, top coats, overcoats, suburban jackets and the like are often provided with removable linings which can be readily attached or detached as needed. Such linings usually are attached through the medium of slide fasteners or buttons and in some cases are provided with sleeves. Sleeved coat-linings now generally made and utilized do not provide adequate freedom of movement of the arms and shoulders of the wearer. In the use of such sleeved lining when the users arms are upraised and usually when the torso is bent forwardly and the shoulders stretched in a forward direction, the back portion of the lining and usually the back portion of the outer main coat, are uncomfortably tensioned across the back of the wearer. Furthermore, in the use of most conventional sleeved coat linings, arm or forward shoulder movements of the wearer causes material in the shoulder portions of the lining as Well as in undergarments worn,

to bunch up, causing discomfort and also marring the external appearance of the overall garment.

It is an object of my invention to provide a simple, economical sleeved lining for coats and jackets which provides freedom of movement to the arms and shoulders of the wearer through the medium of novel extensibility between the inner ends of the sleeves with the body of the liner, thereby positively eliminating the objectionable binding or tightening characteristics of the sleeve liners of the prior art as well as the bunching of material at the shoulders of the lining and/or other garments worn therewith.

A further object is the provision of a sleeved lining of the class described wherein the sleeves of the lining are very smoothly suspended in normal hanging of the wearers arms through a smooth draping of highly flexible, interconnecting material and wherein various arm movements of the wearer as well as movements of the torso and shoulders forwardly, will not produce binding at the lower portions of the back regions of any of the garments worn including the lining or cause bunching of the material of the lining or garments worn thereunder at any point or points thereof.

Another object is the provision of a sleeved lining for coats which is preferably readily attachable and detachable; which requires a minimum of material while achieving the advantages previously recited and which may be assembled and manufactured easily and efficiently.

More specifically, it is an object to provide a sleeved I liner for coats of the class described wherein cooperation between attachment of one side of the annular inner end of the lining sleeve with a special, very flexible inner facing member on the lining body ingeniously provides for closingof the attached end of the sleeve as well as extensibility for facilitating the various arm and shoulder movements of the wearer when the complete garment is .worn.

These and other objects and advantages of my'invention will more fully appear from the following description made in connection with the accompanying drawings wherein like reference characters refer to similar parts throughout the several views and in which:

FIG. 1 is an interior view of a top coat with an embodi- 7 Patented July 4, 196i ment of my sleeved liner applied thereto, the top coat being spread out in planar fashion with one half of the liner attached in operative position and with the other half including the sleeve of the liner withdrawn from its normal operative position in the coat but showing the configuration and contours thereof;

FIG. 2 is a rear view of an embodiment of my sleeved liner showing the left arm thereof in upraised position;

FIG. 3 is an exploded view showing the several parts cut from the patterns for making up an embodiment of my invention, the central body of the lining and the thin back yoke being also doubled upon itself; and

FIG. 4 is another somewhat exploded view of the various pieces just prior to final registration of certain edges for attaching the edges together.

Referring now to the embodiment of my invention illustrated in the drawings, a top coat of conventional pattern and structure is illustrated in FIG. 1, having the opposed front portions F, the back portion 13, the usual collar C and inner facing strips X on the inside of the overlapping, longitudinal edges. A slide fastener tape S with conventional, cooperating slide fastener retaining elements secured thereto extends continuously beneath the facings X of the coat (the right hand one which is turned outwardly to expose the tape) upwardly from adjacent the skirt of the coat along one longitudinal edge, then in curved relation about the upper shoulder and neck portions and then downwardly beneath the opposite coat facing.

My lining is equipped at its longitudinal and neck edges with a continuous slide fastener tape having complementary fastener elements for cooperation with the elements on tape S of the coat and also carries the camming element or slide (not shown) whereby in the com ventional manner, the liner at its edges may be connected with or disconnected from the slide fastener tape S of the top coat. Slide fastener elements are not shown in FIG. 2 of the drawings, which is a perspective view of the liner disattached, but since this connection is conventiona1, no details are thought necessary.

Proceeding now with a description of the various elements or parts of my sleeved liner which inherently produce the new and improved advantages and results previously related; a lining-body 6 is preferably intergrally cut out from suitable fabric to the proper pattern and as shown, in FIGS. 3 and 4, is doubled longitudinally, said views showing the forward free edges 6a of the body, the folded rear edge 6b and the arm hole portions 6c, one at each side of the body member. Body 6 is usually constructed of a warm fabric such as wool, but I do not intend to limit the material to either heavy or thin fabric or other flexible material.

In constructing the arm hole portions 60 a longitudinal slit is formed at each side of the body member extending preferably but not necessarily from the upper edge of the body downwardly along a substantially straight edge 6d for the rear side of the arm hole and being fashioned along a french curve starting, as shown, at the upper edge of the body and extending downwardly and forwardly and then inwardly and rearwardly as clearly shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. This edge 6e at a point a few inches above the lower extremities of edge 6d extends substantially straight from the lower end of the french curve. Sleeve sections for one of the two sleeves of the coat are illustrated in FIG. 3 as comprising front and back, warmfabric sections 7 and 8 and thin rayon or other corresponding liner-sleeve sections 9 and 10 respectively. It will be understood, of course, that the sleeve lining sections 9 and 10 may be omited particularly if a smoother material is used for the main sleeve sections 7 and 8. Also, the sleeves could be formed by folding an integral sheet of material rather than having front and back sections. Each of the sleeve sections, as shown, has an upper peak portion 7a and 8a in the main sleeve sections which when the sections are stitched together forms a peak shoulder portion for connection with the upper portion of the body of the liner.

A thin and highly flexible back yoke 11 of thin fabric, such as rayon, at its forward edges constitutes an important cooperating part of my improved structure. It is shown folded or doubled upon itself in FIGS. 3 and 4 and it is attached as indicated at FIG. 4 to the back portion of body 6 (of generally similar configuration thereto) along the stitching lines gg. The length of the flexible back yoke circumferentially of the garment, is preferably from an inch to two and a half inches greater than the distance circumferentially between the forward edges 6d defining one slot of the armhole slits in the body. In stitching the back yoke to the upper marginal portion of the back of the lining body, a pleat is formed in the back yoke along the stitching lines g-g. As indicated in FIG. 3 of the drawings, the back yoke is notched at portions n to indicate where the upper edge of the yoke is to be doubled or brought together and stitched to form the pleat P (see FIG. 1). This pleat causes uniform and tailored draping of the soft, flexible rayon or other material used for the yoke and affords very improved extensibility during arm movements of the wearer, as will later be seen. The forward edges 11a of the thin yoke as well as the continuous lower edge 11b of the yoke are not attached in any way to the back portion or side portion of the body of the lining, but are free to swing or drape with reference to the body. In FIGS. 3 and 4, I illustrate thin front facing portions which may constitute rayon and which are attached throughout their upper and side edges to the front portions of the body. These however, are not essential and may be omitted as they constitute no part of my invention.

The assembling of the various parts described, is illustrated in part in FIG. 4 and may be easily accomplished by stitching or other conventional attachment means. As shown in FIG. 4, the curved edges 6e of the body defining the arm holes are stitched or otherwise attached along the fastening lines -0 of the body, the front facing and the front sleeve section and its lining thus securing one side of the annular upper end of the completed sleeve to the body at the arm hole.

The back sleeve section with liner 10 attached, if utilized, is then stitched along the attachment lines bb only to the thin back yoke at the forward edge 11a thereof. It is not stitched or in any way directly connected with the side portion of the body at the arm hole. The last stitching or attachment with the previous stitching of the front sleeve section along the line cc thereby closes in each instance the sleeve at its upper tubular end just below attachment or stitching lines bb which close the rear side of the upper end of the sleeve. The thin back yoke (along a substantial vertical line), the straight portion of the arm hole slit at the lower end thereof and if a rayon front facing is" used, the rear edge thereof are all stitched or secured together along the stitch lines aa of FIG. 4. Thus, it will be seen that a short portion of the forward edge 11b of the rayon back yoke just below the sleeve connection is secured to the slitted portion of the front of the body 6 giving a freedom of relatively swinging movement or opening between such slit portions of the body just below the respective sleeves.

After attachment of the thin back yoke with the back sleeve section as recited and attachment of the forward portion of the body defining the arm hole with the front sleeve section and the stitching along the lines a-a as described, the two sleeve sections for each arm are fastened together along the longitudinal stitch or fastening lines ee and d- The sleeved garment lining is then completed with the seams hidden and has the smooth tailored appearance shown in the rear perspective view of FIG 2. When so completed, the very thin rear yoke material, such as rayon, loosely and extensibily interconnects the rearward side of the annular upper end of the sleeve with the back of the body and in combination with the straight line lower slit portion designated in FIGS. 2 and 4 as Y, affords substantial play and freedom of movement of the arms and shoulders of the wearer without producing tension or circumferential tightening of any portion of the back of the lining. In this connection the pleat P formed medially at the upper edge of the back yoke which normally drapes the rayon or other material smoothly and downwardly, provides for great extensibility of the free, major portion of the back yoke of material when the arms of the wearer are raised or when the torso and shoulders of the wearer are extended forwardly. With applicants improved structure and highly flexible connection between the rear side of the annular upper ends of the sleeves with the garment through the medium of the flexible, pleated back yoke material, it is of course impossible in the various movements of the arms and shoulders of the wearer, to bunch any of the material of the liner or of garments worn below the liner.

The completely closed juncture of the lining-sleeves at their upper annular ends with the lining garment requires no additional material as compared to the conventional structure of sleeved liners extensively employed at the present time. The assembly of the parts and stitching or other fastening of the inner connected edges is simple and may be economically accomplished.

Sleeved liners of the structure described may be provided for various coats and jackets such as overcoats, top coats, suburban jackets, wind breakers and the like; and in each instance, will afford a nice appearing tailored lining garment if worn alone and will furnish readily attachable linings for garments with the full facilities and advantages heretofore recited. In the claims, the terms coat and the like or overcoat and the like mean all of the various coats and jackets enumerated.

It will, of course, be understood that various changes may be made in the proportions, details and arrangement of parts without departing from the scope of applicants invention.

What I claim is:

1. A body and sleeve lining for a sleeved coat or the like comprising a lining body having back, side and front portions and an upper edge adapted to underlie the corresponding portions of the coat, said body side portions having elongated armholes formed therein having forward and rear edges extending to points at least adjacent the upper edge of said lining body and extending downwardly therefrom at each side, a thin, highly flexible back yoke overlying and extending across the back and part of the side portions of said body substantially to the upper edge of the body and having forward upwardly extending side edges extending in length for at least the full length of said armhole portions, said back yoke being of a width greater than the distance between the two rear edges of said armhole portions of said body and being secured to said liner body at its upper edge with pleated effect and having its lower edge free of attachment to said body, substantially throughout the full width thereof and having its forward, upwardly extending edges free of attachment to said body throughout substantially the lengths of said arm openings, 21 pair of sleeves each having an annular inner end defined by forward and rearward side edges, the rearward side edge of each sleeve directly overlying and being directly attached to the upper portion of the corresponding forward edge of said back yoke and being free of attachment to said liner body and thereby completing attachment of the corresponding sleeve and very fiexibily, extensibly and indirectly connecting the sleeve with the rear portion of said lining body.

2. The structure set forth in claim 1 wherein the armholes formed in the side portions of said liner body are 5 defined at their forward edges by concave curves and at their rearward edges by substantially straight vertical lines, said lines intersecting the upper edge of said liner body to leave a narrow opening at the upper end of the 'armholes, said lines being extended substantially vertically in said body below the lower end of said curved lines, forming short vertical slits in said body below the armholes, said yoke member and the forward edges thereof extending in length below said armholes and the said forward edges of said yoke member at their lower portions below the armhole being secured to the marginal portions of said garment defining said slits just forwardly of said slits.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,854,476 Mason Apr. 19, 1932 2,112,788 Rosenberg Mar. 29', 1938 2,198,064 Shane Apr. 23, 1940 2,401,591 Trin'kel June 4, 1946 2,483,015 Levy e Sept. 27, 1949 2,500,084 Metzger i Mar. 7, 1950 

